Week 20 Adventures

Jim and I held a steak and salmon cook-off at our house this week.  During our last party, two of the men claimed to be the best barbeque chef in the “whole wide world”, so it only made sense that we put them to the test!   Around noon I opened the door for the rented table rounds, chairs and tablecloths.  Appetizers, salads and main dishes were brought by various guests, the barbeque was fired up, and the cook-off was underway.  If you have never had an Argentinian-cut steak, you are in for a treat if you love steak.  At least 4 inches thick and the circumference of a Porterhouse, it was amazing to see one of the chefs cook them to perfection. An ice chest with several whole  salmon fillets occupied the attention of the other chef.  Somewhere during the evening, it was decided that we would do a monthly barbeque cook-off to test the skills of several other guys who claim to have specialty ribs,  kabobs,  porkchops, or something.  By the end of the year, for sure we’ll know who has the greatest barbeque skills.  Maybe it will be a tie!

We have a new hotel and housing project in town, Rosewood, San Miguel de Allende.  Owned by an American company based in New York who has built 19 exclusive resorts around the world, the Rosewood has already been written up as one of Conde Nast’s Hot locations, is on “The It List” , and “Travel and Leisure” named it for best service.  It is a perfect venue for weddings and meetings.  I only bring this up as I was asked to be a part of a select group of people to do a photo shoot for their hotel.  Wearing a long summer dress, and a couple of pieces of my Mexican pottery jewelry, I tripped along in my new San Miguel huaraches to join the  group in the lobby.  We were taken into the Tequila Lounge for instructions and a sip of our choice of beverage.  I met more new people of course, and hooked up with a couple of our friends.  We had a great time being posed in conversational positions, all the while white-coated and gloved waiters circulated with trays of elegant hors d’ oeuvres and wine.  One of the waiters was a muy guapo personal trainer from the gym, and it was fun watching him try to be friendly and helpful in his role as waiter, instead of barking out orders for us to do more bench presses!

On Sunday, June 19, the Locos (Crazy People) will frolic through many of the main streets in town, ending up on the Plaza Principal along the Jardin. Monsters, clowns, men dressed as grotesque women, Mexican politicians and popular entertainers are among the varied and original costumes to be seen, and are  accompanied by colorfully decorated floats and allegoric cars. This carnival was originally an act of faith and devotion that began in the 19th century, when orchard workers danced to give thanks and ask San Pascual Bailon for a prosperous year.

During the colonial times, San Miguel was surrounded by large orchards. The Franciscan friars at the monastery, held a celebration and dance outside the church for the orchard workers to honor San Pascual Bailon on his day.  As onlookers increasingly crowded the dancers, some of the older celebrants began to disguise themselves as scarecrows to keep the crowd at a distance so the children would have room to dance. They also brought small wild animals such as raccoons,skunks or possums to scare the crowd away. The people began to call them “locos,” the name they carry today.

The modern Locos parade actually condenses several celebrations into one event: San Isidro’s day on June 15, San Pascual Bailon’s day on May 17, Corpus Christi, and San Antonio’s day on June 1. The Locos, although crazy, are well-organized into four groups: Cuadro del Parque, Cuadro Antiguo, Cuadro Nuevo and Cuadro del Tecolote. Each cuadro is subdivided into several smaller groups.  Thousands of people crowd the sidewalks. It has been described in the San Francisco Chronicle as a mix of Brazil’s Carnivale and the Gay Pride Parade.

A local story is going around about an American  thinking of visiting San Miguel de Allende but he was afraid. He contacted a native of SMA, saying he had some questions.  The American said, “I’m afraid to travel to central Mexico.  Is there drug cartel violence in San Miguel?”  The SMA native replied, “No, most of the drug cartel violence is along the border with your country.”

“What about earthquakes, then?” asked the American. “I hear there have been some bad ones in Mexico.”  “Yes,” said the SMA native, “but we don’t have earthquakes in San Miguel—most of the earthquake activity is around Mexico City.”

” Hmmm,” said the American, “I’ve read about the devastating hurricanes you have there during the summer, though. I’m very concerned about that.”  “No,” said the SMA native, “We’re in the center of the country; the
hurricanes occur along our coasts. The hurricanes bring us rain but we’re grateful for that—we need the rain!”

“Well,” said the American, “then you must have TORNADOES!”  “No, no”, said the SMA native, “We’re in the mountains and it’s very dry and warm here in the Spring. We don’t have the weather conditions for tornadoes here.”

By this time, the American was becoming exasperated.  In the States, news reports were filled with all the terrible things happening in Mexico. “Well, look,” he said, “San Miguel de Allende must have SOMETHING.”  “We do,” The SMA native replied.  “Fiestas.”  

Appropriate, don’t you think?

Hasta proxima fiesta!

Week 17-19 Adventures

Keep in mind that, although we have been here twenty one weeks now, I’ve had many new things to see, places to go, things to eat, people to meet and things to do!  After all, the hot month of the year is now behind us, and we are getting cool breeze and small sprinkles here and there, which will continue on into June, July, August and sometimes September.  With an average annual rainfall of 29 inches, after the hottest month of record in 40 years, I say: “Bring it on”.  I’m sure these are not sweet words to you in California who have finally heard an official end to “The DROUGHT“. 

Our friend Judy arrived on the late afternoon flight this week.  After a quick dinner in the inner courtyard, I warned her that she’d soon hit a wall as the travel and time change would get to her.  Insisting she wanted to have a quick tour, we obliged, only to find her in a heap on her bed while we were showing her the upstairs.  We took the precaution of quickly sequestering Pepe in the casita so he wouldn’t ring in the day before she was ready to awaken.

Central San Miguel is a magnet for friends and guests and Judy was no different.  Knowing that “Judy” in Spanish is “Hudy”, we shared breakfast in the courtyard while determining how Hudy’s agenda for the week would take shape.  Being a huge fan of  Toller Cranston, Canadian ice skating champion (see earlier blog), Hudy wanted to go by and see where he lived.  Having met him a couple of months earlier and knowing how open and easy people are here, I rang all three of the doorbells outside of his home, fully prepared to adopt a quasi Canadian accent if necessary.  The door was answered by one of his house/yard men, who advised us that Toller was finalyzing work to be taken to Canada next week for an art show, where at the same time he would be receiving an Honorary Doctorate for his contribution to the art world.  We could wait if we wished and were invited to browse his grounds, his guest houses, studio and kitchen.  Shortly after, Toller appeared, and graciously invited us into his kitchen where we sat with him at his kitchen table nursing a glass of peach juice.  He regaled us with his views on the ice-skating world, his near-defection to Russia as a professional skater, and his views on politics in many countries including the U.S.   Painting  became his passion from the time he was around 6 years old, while his skating gave him another artistic avenue with which to express himself.  His style of skating was way ahead of his time and his painting clearly followed the same path.  An interesting, albeit eccentric character, Hudy proclaimed it to be the height of her vacation…………….we’ll wait and see!

Unfortunately, preceding the rainy season, we have intermittent but strong winds which torment those with allergies.  Our good doctor across the street wrote a prescription for anti-biotics and gave her a shot and Hudy was forced to lay low for a couple of days while they worked their magic.  

Seizing calm before another allergic storm, Hudy was also treated to a tour of DaNisha Sculptures.  We learn something new about their work everytime we go into the workshop.   We watched as the acrobatic troupes  finished practice and were gathering up for the day.   Nisha has so much energy, one can understand how her activities have become so diverse and distinctive. 

The first Friday of every month is the Art Walk at the Fabrica Aurora.  With somewhere around 40 galleries, the event is usually well attended.  However, as May is the hot month (have I mentioned that before a couple of times?) many seize the opportunity to close their studios and leave for cool beach air.  Meeting some of our friends in the entrance courtyard, then more friends as we went along, our group grew.  Collectively, we still managed to view many studios before heading off to a new Argentinian Steak House for dinner. 

An appointment was made to see Galeria Atotonilco.  Tucked off the main road a  short distance out of town, over the river and through the dell, we discovered the downward winding gravel road leading us past a small lake, several outcroppings of beautiful plantings, a grassy area, and ended under huge shady mesquite trees in front of a sprawling contemporary compound.  Located on eight acres with ancient mesquite trees and frontage on the Rio Laja,  Mayer Shacter and his wife, writer Susan Page, found the neglected property in 2001.  It included two abandoned warehouses that had been a factory for rattan furniture.  Transformation from factory to home and galeria is ingenius.

Met by Mayer, we were escorted into the galeria, where we were instantly mesmerized by vibrant and colorful Mexican folk art. The mark of a good merchandiser is immediately recognized when one walks into a gallery and all faces light up with intrigue.  Galeria Atotonilco held that fascination for us. Roaming around Mexico for many months, Mayer, a former potter for 27 years  fromVenice, Ca. to northern California, had collected vintage mid-century modern furniture and decorative arts, as well as fine Mexican antiques.  He and Susan continue to travel Mexico, looking for undiscovered artists whose work deserves support. 

Of special fascination to me was his collection of masks handmade each year by individuals who will be dancing in the annual Tastoanes Dance on July 25th each year in Tonala, Jalisco, Mexico.  The roots of the Tastoan performance can actually be traced back to the Spain of centuries past. The performance of the Tastoanes comes from the 12th century, when the first performances were put on, known as the dance of the Moors and the Christians. In Spain’s version, the event symbolizes the expulsion of the Moors by the Christians, while Mexico’s variation — often called the dance of the Tastoanes — is commonly interpreted as the representation of the Spanish conquest of Mexico in the 1500s. 

Real horsehair used.....and looks like some of Glenn's grey hair??

Many have carved lizards, snakes, scorpions, small pox spots, and spiders. Indigents fled the Spaniards, hiding in caves, where they were found dead, crawling with these creepy crawlers!

Ugly suckers aren't they, including the spiders and snakes crawling up it's tongue.

Heading home with our treasures, Hudy proclaimed this day the best day of all.  Until she remembered DaNisha and Toller Cranston…..then she couldn’t decide!!!

Hasta la vista, amigas.

Week 16 + Adventures

 Over the past couple of weeks, we have enjoyed the company of friends from los Estados Unidos.  Just when we were starting to lose our last healthy hair trying to learn orthographic stem changes in Spanish, we were given a reprieve from lessons to share time with our friends.  Chris and Bruce Maxson arrived with the dawn light, although  not before Pepe’s morning sound-off, and Betty’s pre-walk somersalts and Upward Betty calisthenics. 

Upward Betty

After throwing together a Mexican breakfast for them, we headed for the inner courtyard to chat awhile before it was necessary for them to fall face down in a pool of drool in exhaustion.  As we have taken that same midnight flight several times after being up since early morning, encountering cold airplanes, the two hour time change, and an additional  1-1/2 hour drive to our hideaway, we understood the need for a siesta, shower and change of clothes. 

First stop upon awakening, central San Miguel; second stop, a margarita in the Jardin. Over cobblestones, into doorways, around fountains and through other wandering pedestrians, new discoveries were shared.  Arriving home, we headed for the sunset terrace for hors d’ oeuvres and wine to watch the sunset.  We have a French expat who makes wonderful appetizers, main entrees, quiches and desserts.  These are delivered by motorbike hot within minutes.

 

 

Bruce & Chris- something was very funny up on the sun terrace!

 

 

Another beautiful sky!

Early in the  morning we shared breakfast out in the courtyard to the extremely loud and annoying sound of Pepe letting us know he was supposed to be fed first.

Our adventure for the day was to go to the taller (workshop) of Dan and Nisha Ferguson of DaNisha Sculpture.  This multi-talented Canadian couple moved family and businesses down here over 8 years ago.  Dan led us through the workshop explaining the entire process for his ceramic sculptures.  He makes each design by hand from clay,  forms the negative mold (which often can be up to 24 pieces), and pours the slip creating the greenware.  Nisha’s creativity now comes into play as she etches her designs by hand into each unique piece.  As her brain starts to trip merrily along forming new artistic effects, what emerges are beautiful and whimsical ceramic bowls and sculptures unparalleled by any we’ve seen elsewhere.

Nisha of “DaNisha Sculptures”

As though she’s not busy enough as mom, wife, artist and home builder, Nisha squeezes in a little more activity into her busy schedule with her  acrobatics school  “Gravityworks”, which lies twenty feet above the workshop.  Her troupes perform in many events in San Miguel and surrounding cities in Mexico.  Their website for  ceramics, bronzes, paintings and Gravityworks is www.danishasculpture.com  and has better pictures of their work than mine!                                                                                                                 

Next stop was to ride mexican-style in Dan’s pickup up into the foothills where they are building their own self-sustaining compound.  Their home, a house for Dan’s mom, another for Nisha’s sister & brother-in-law, and a guest house were all being constructed at the same time with 3 separate crews.    Two brothers from one of the crew live in a make-shift campsite on the property to prevent tools and materials from walking off into the night of their own accord. Included in the construction is solar energy,  large enough cisterns beneath each house to sustain them through a mild drought, energy efficient windows, recycled cabinetry, and a very old but lovingly maintained O’Keefe and Merritt gas stove.  A nearby neighbor, a transplant from New York 20 years ago, was  was assisting with the efficiency projects.  Tales of his journey from New York to Mexico were both humorous as well as awe-inspiring. 

Bruce and I discover "Air travel" in Mexico.

 It is customary for new construction to be blessed by the albanillos (stone masons)  This typically is done with the property owner throwing a big party, including lots of cerveza, and a priest being called to bless the structure while affixing a cross.  The saying here is “no cruz, prohibido entrada.

Dan explaining the blessing and the cross.

 

Ferguson compound/ a brick boveda ceiling being covered with 6" of cement.

 

Crew's campsite for 10 months of construction!

 

Arrangements for dinner that evening took us to the Mirador which overlooks all of San Miguel.  As usual, the sky went from brilliant to pastel watercolors in minutes.  A perfect ending to a perfect day! 

Dinner at El Mirador with Dan Ferguson

 Every Sunday morning the Biblioteca holds a “House Tour” of 2-3 beautiful homes in San Miguel.  Although we head out at noon, a local mexican group serenaded us in the interior courtyard of the Biblioteca during our wait.  One home we visited was over 100 years old featuring ancient twisted mesquite beams which held up the hacienda porches.  Rare mesquite doors with shutters fit perfectly into old stone doorways making you feel you had stepped back in time.

Casa Zazula-Home Tour of 100 yr old colonial home

 

Casa Zazula windows

 Between the two houses on the home tour, the bus suddenly ground to a halt in the middle of the street.  Coming toward us were many types of costumed dancers and characters.  We were told people were practicing for the “Pres Loco Parade” to be held on June 19.  This parade is very large, and for weeks ahead of the event, participants practice so that everyone knows just how much time it takes, where and when to stop, etc.  It was amazing to see the extent of the costumes…just for practicewhich was in 105 degree heat! (Note the babies being carried asleep on mom’s backs.) 

Pres Loco Parade

Pres Loco Parade

 Following the parade, we met with artist Gerry Gill and toured her beautiful B&B “Casa Granada”  (Pomegranite House) which sits on one of the upper roads circling Centro San Miguel.  A hand-painted “Michaelangelo ceiling”  and a very old sculpture were discovered in the dining room.  Gerry has added countless personal touches with antique Mexican furniture, giving the place a simple elegance that makes you wish for a book and a margarita while looking out shuttered windows at the magnificent views.  Being a resident artist for over 25 years, Gerry has explored numerous medias:  encaustics, oils, bronze, watercolors and most likely many more that I haven’t seen.  Her most recent work, shown below, reminds me of Betty and was in fact her little pooch.

Gerry Gill, artist and owner of La Granada, B&B extraordinaire!

Guanajuato certainly has it’s own unique charm and nearly everyone who visits wants to experience it.  Therefore, off we headed to the breathtaking city with every intention of crawling down into one of the silver mines.  We were not disappointed and were glad we took our friend and maestra, Laura, along to translate the tour guide’s commentary.   The Valencia silver mine is still in operation and extends ten stories beneath the ground (each story being about 9 ft).  The section we were allowed to tour is no longer active.  With 150 very steep winding steps straight down into the cave with only minimal lighting, we certainly could appreciate what these miners were subjected to many years ago, when carrying 16 kilo bags (35 lbs) on there backs up those uneven wicked steps multiple times a day.  Theirs was the easy job, however.  Usually two other men spent the entire day at the bottom of the cave, lighting fires to heat up the rock surface.  With pick and axe they worked on extending the tunnel, following the vein of silver ore in the cave wall.  We were shown the streaks of ore and were surprised to find that silver in it’s raw state is black, and gold is usually found along side it.  Being subjected to absolute darkness all day, surfacing into brilliant sunlight at the end of the day, made blindness a very common issue, along with deaths from lung disease and overextertion. 

Valencia silver mine in Guanajuato

Lunch in the Jardin with Chris, Bruce & Laura. We had our first taste of huitlacoche, made from fungus grown on corn. Really quite good!

Our last day we spent buying all of the paper roses the flower lady on the corner of the jardin had in her baskets.  Chris and Bruce headed home arms laden with huge bouquets.  I’m sure they made quite a stir walking through the airport!

 As I’ve some catching up to do before our friend, Judy arrives, hasta la vista!