No matter how hard we try to get more hours into a day, time marches on and we aren’t planning on missing a beat. Jim has found out where to buy peanut butter, sweet bread and butter pickles and string cheese here, so he’s a happy camper. Give me a new place to explore and friends to go with and I’m tickled as long as the great outdoors is involved.
It’s always fun to initiate friends and family into the “siesta/fiesta” lifestyle we’ve become so familiar with here. Upon the arrival of my brother and his family a few weeks ago, they were given only moments to acclimate, before they were herded down the streets of town. A stroller for a one-year old doesn’t work well on cobblestones, and exhausted after exploring the mostly uphill and seldom downhill of this 6400 ft altitude town, we staggered into the inner courtyard of a small restaurant. After lunch, the stroller was jostled over high curbs and cobblestones into the Jardin where the Sunday activities included mariachi bands, vendors selling colorful stick-toys, and young children with bags of confetti-eggs for sale, 12 for 5 pesos. Our little blonde gringito was not timid about smashing these eggs on the heads of smaller children, while he came away with silver paint and confetti from head to toe.
Rae “christening” a little girl with his confetti eggs.
Even his little sister, Molly will be shaking confetti out of that red hair for weeks.
Jumping on a bus was the easy part of our trip to Mexico City. Taking two heavily laden taxis from the bus station to our hotel through gnarly, noisy, pushy, inconsiderate traffic forced us to close our eyes and hold our breath. Regardless, we dumped our stuff in the hotel and started walking around town. Finding the Zocolo, we mapped out our afternoon and the following day’s excursions. The awe-inspiring Lake Chapultepek Park (the world’s largest park within a city), the Anthropologia Museo, and the Templo Mayor next to the oldest and largest cathedral in Mexico were top of the list. Mexico City is sinking at the rate of 1″ per year and as we walked past a section of old buildings in front of the Templo Mayor you begin to feel a little dis-oriented as the buildings shift sideways.
Recently discovered Templo Mayor built in the early 1300’s within the city, had seven pyramids and enlarged eleven times, each built over the top of the earlier one. The snakes guard the entrance to the original pyramid.
A wall of skulls which surrounded one of the pyramids, intended to scare off those who thought they could take over the city.
Buildings slanting right as the city sinks 1″ per year as it was built on a massive lake that covered most of the region for hundreds of miles.
Ancient Templo Mayor with old-town Distrito Federal and cathedral in center and modern skyscrapers in distance.
Pendulum in cathedral keeps measurement of how fast Mexico City is sinking.
Mass-baby christening held in cathedral, with a line out the door.
Absent stray baby socks, toy animals and trains, and the non-stop chatter of a 3-year-old and 1-year-old whose position of choice is the right leg waving straight up in the air and a grin on her face, our normal daily routine resumed…. Right up until four friends (with whom I play MahJong), determined to “shop til they drop”, convinced me a girl’s trip was in order for Ajijic on Lake Chapala, Tlaquepaque and Tonala, all towns surrounding Guadalajara. An early morning bus from San Miguel delivered in the early afternoon where our pre-arranged driver picked us up to take us to our B&B in Ajijic. After hoofing it the couple of blocks to Lake Chapala, we found a great place just off the boardwalk to check out the margaritas and have a late lunch. As we sat on the deck looking over the lake and sipping our drinks, in strolled a couple with an African Grey Parrot, Pancho. Quite at home, and with an attitude of superiority, Pancho eventually graced us with his presence at our table. Startled by a loud braying, we looked down over the railing of the porch to find an indignant white burro waiting for his share of attention.
Ajijic is a beautiful, tropical community, and was one of the first places in Mexico where gringos and artists began to migrate in the 1950’s. Jumping up for a sumptuous breakfast early the next morning, we were ready to go as our driver arrived in a van to haul us around to some of the larger factories of glass, iron, and local artisan’s markets. At day’s end, the van was packed to the ceiling and we were ready for the pool at the B&B and a cool drink. Tomorrow we would be taken to Tlaquepaque where we would be meandering up and down streets, further enriching the lives of the local Mexican population who were only too willing to pack our purchases back to the B&B for us.
Early to rise, we were presented with a gourmet breakfast by the owner of Casa de las Flores in Tlaquepaque. After giving us an eloquent presentation on the history and meanings of the different local art to be found here, we set off like a string of ducks down the narrow sidewalk toward the heart of town. Splitting up on both sides of the street so every nook and cranny could be explored, when a “find” was heralded, much like fleas running across the back of a puppy, the others came scurrying.
Block-long tile mural in Tlaquepaque, depicting all types of life and people in Mexico
Learning that an all-girl mariachi band played every afternoon at the central courtyard of one of the mercados, we timed our arrival just before the band commenced. Adding to our entertainment were two young couples from a local dance school, beautifully costumed and very adept at performing the traditional Mexican dances. What a delightful way to squander an afternoon!
Native Mexican dancers performing to music of all-girl mariachi band.
The senoritas.
An abuelo taking a siesta from selling his bouquet of paper flowers.
Hasta la vista!
Kathy & Jim's 2011 san Miguel de Allende Odyssey 