Week 22 Adventures

In  earlier chapters I’ve talked about some of the sounds and superstitions of San Miguel.  One of those sounds is the triple note whistle one hears as the knife sharpener moves down the street.  During our Spanish lesson this week, as the whistle sounded, both our housekeeper and our maestra laughed at our surprised faces as they jumped up, grabbed their shirts and began to shake them.  “Para buena suerta“, they cried for good luck!  Alrighty then….how do you conjugate that?

Every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday morning we have started kayaking La Presa with our kayak group.  Just after daybreak, we head out toward the farmlands and the lake, nestled just beyond the brick making grounds and kilns.  The water is usually like glass at this hour, and hundreds of white herons, snowy egrets and night herons line the banks.  Making gentle trails in the water, lone fishermen row out into the lake to check their nets for fish.   Each waves hello and we wish them luck with their daily catch.  Off we head across the lake, past an old chapel usually submerged several feet when the lake is full, a giant stone aqueduct, a stone tower, and various horses and cattle on the bank.  As the lake bends around the point to the right, we see a tiny steeple way off in the middle of the water.  Paddling steadily for another 15 minutes, we come across the ruins of a church rising out of the water, with a cactus growing out of the steeple just above the upper bell tower.  Flanked by the ruins of ancient stone village walls, it has all become a bird haven for many types of water birds.  We paddle around and through them to a small adjacent island where a baby goat has been tethered to safely graze for the day.  Round trip it is just short of 5 miles and the wind often picks up for the trip back which makes for an intense paddle into the wind and through small whitecaps.

Submerged church in La Presa

Ancient Ruins of church

Mark Scholl and Holly Snowden “discussing” who won the race across La Presa to the church.

Mi amiga, Deborah Axton and I

 Mi amigo y el capitan, Erik Hansen, making sure we develop strong paddling techniques

Jim and I have started volunteering our Sundays at La Biblioteca as docent for the Home Tour.  A bonus to us is getting to see many fabulous homes gratis. This past week we were posted in an 8000 sq ft home with a stone turret just inside the entry.  This home had 4 bedrooms each with its own terrace and hammock, somewhere around 8 bathrooms (but who’s counting those) a wine room with over 3000 bottles of wine ( I counted these), a huge kitchen, media room, living room, family room, game room, heavy two-sided mirrors that slid into the walls and separated rooms, and views from every room overlooking San Miguel.  Beautifully decorated and not afraid of the deep colors common to the U.S., these owners from Texas had spared no expense.  I neglected to say it also was 4 stories with steps up, down, around, under and over.  I’m guessing that gym memberships are not high on their list of priorities.

The next home we were stationed in is the Rosewood project where I had participated in the publicity video-filming.  The largest was also 4 stories, this time with an elevator.  Being sold for 2 million U.S., it too, had been exquisitely decorated and had every first class amenity one could imagine for the retiree.  We thought about buying 2 of them but felt it more prudent not diminish the inventory for other gringos wanting to retire.

We are heading for the U.S. next week for the next 6 weeks so be patient and I will resume my storytelling upon return.

Week 21 Adventures

Once again we felt the urge to discover new places and the Veracruz annual Kayak Championship caught our interest.  Although kayaking is typically not a Mexican sport, it is beginning to become a little more popular.  A local group of our friends have been kayaking the lake (la presa) several mornings a week to get ready for the competition.  We were invited to come along to Veracruz to watch the race and see this beautiful colonial beach community, which is the largest shipping port in Mexico.  Toll roads are, for the most part, very good in Mexico.   Caravaning southeast for 7 hours with 5 kayaks strapped to the roof of a truck  (3 made of cedar in Vietnam) caused many curious toll road agents to stop us  while they closely examined these curiosities.  After their touchy-feely requests had been exhausted, we continued on our way.

5 kayaks on top of a truck is easy to keep track of

Heading up and over the mountain at around 9000 feet, we were able to see two volcanos (one that erupts periodically close to Mexico City) and miles and miles of beautiful and very lush green farmland.    Spanish explorers introduced rice years ago and due to the wet climate in Veracruz, it is the primary crop.  Coffee is grown in the mountains, while sugar cane, corn, broccoli and papaya are other mainland crops.  Brilliant flamboyant trees are in full bloom and the orange-red splash of their umbrellas is stunning!  On we drove, through Puebla and Orizaba (now on our list to go back and spend more time), until we reached Veracruz.  Also famous for fresh seafood  and top rated chefs (ever hear of Fishhouse Veracruz),  our first stop was to a terrific seafood restaurant on the water where we shared oysters Rockefeller,  shrimp and other seafood delights.

After taking care of the race details of having the kayaks measured and weighed, we walked into the old town plaza and gardens, stopping for a light lunch.   Circulating among the tables was a woman dressed in medical attire carrying a blood pressure cuff.  An interesting way to make a living!  After assuring her that no-one needed a stretcher or a transfusion, we went on to explore the cart vendors’ wares in the jardin and do a little bargaining.  The girls bought several different blouses and dresses while the guys hung around rocking back and forth on their heels trying to look 10 years younger and completely fascinated by our purchases!

THEY said that was the biggest hat anyone had ever seen. I said it kept sun off my face and shoulders. THEY said it kept the sun off everyone on the sidewalk!

Race day came early and with sunblock, cameras, visors and water at hand, we drove to the Boca de Rio where the kayaks were going to put in.  Olympic kayak gold medalist Andre Sierra, now a kayaking instructor and very good looking, greeted me with a kiss  and a hug.  Not knowing who he was, I felt it was appropriate to just kiss him back.  It wasn’t until the race was over and awards were being presented that I found out who he was.  Ignorance is bliss!

Daybreak before the race

Top left: Erik Hansen, Deborah Axton, Mark Scholl, Johnnie Starbuck, Marc Winderman, Lou Marricino, Kathy Machir, Holly Snowden, Joannie Starbuck, Angelica Marricino and Jim Machir

The race was divided into groups based upon sex, age, type of kayak, singles or doubles.  As the sun rose over the water, the call was made for participants to hit the water.  Once they were off, the 6 of us who made up Los Estados Unidos  cheering section headed for Starbucks.  Two hours and eighteen kilometers (12 miles) later, our participants began to reach the finish line on the landing at the Isla de Amor.  We hooted and tossed them bottles of water.  With 91 degree weather and 66% humidity, they couldn’t drink fast enough.  Three won gold medals and two won silver and we felt it was a huge accomplishment for los Americanos!  Next year we are entering the competition ourselves. You never know, perhaps they’ll have a category for slightly seasoned gringos who merely speak louder when not understood!