Deep rooted traditions delight and inspire those here who seize the opportunity to immerse themselves in the vast array of community activities. You may have noticed we are clearly guilty of fully submerging!
From October 30 to November 2, Día de los Muertos activities bring out the little kid in everyone, with costume balls, a Catrina parade, hundreds of little kids with plastic pumpkins to hold their “loot”, people walking around with “tequila cups” hung around their neck, professional dancers, singers and band performances. Elaborate altars are constructed not only publicly, but also in private homes which are then opened to the public for viewing.
This altar covered the entire inner courtyard of Camino Sylvestre.
Painstaking attention to detail while making an Altar
Another altar in the Jardin
The first evening of festivities for us began at the Mask Museum which is open free to the public only on this day each year. Displaying over 500 masks from Central and South America, each has a short story which draws you further into the old customs of the given area. Following the museum, we meandered our way down the cobblestone streets and alleys until we arrived at Fabrica Aurora’s art galleries. Each gallery had created altares honoring deceased artists. Many were dressed in ghoulish costumes or as Catrinas. La Catrina, with the elaborate hats and dresses, represent the rich and powerful women that are just as susceptible to death as the poor.
Dos Catrinas at Fabrica Aurora Galleries
Tribute to a local artist.
November 1st is actually called Dia de los Santos Inocentes (day of the innocent saints)-children. November 2nd is the official Dia de los Muertos. On that day, the largest celebrations take place, including the aforementioned Catrina Parade. Over 250 women dressed in beautiful dresses and extravagantly plumed hats, with faces painted in masks of death. Many men also participated, wearing tuxedos and formal stovepipe hats. As we entered the staging area, tiny pottery cups were hung around our necks so we could sip tequila while awaiting the start of the parade. At 8:00,(mas o menos), we emerged into the Plaza where thousands of children waited to receive the candy we were handing out. Jim and I hung onto each other while wading through the crowd and managed to pass out two full shopping bags of candy as we strolled the perimeter of the jardin. Once we reached the Parroquia, we stopped to watch the dancers on the stage and to view more of los altares before joining the other paraders at Pescau’s, a fabulous seafood restaurant.
Jim and Kathy in La Catrina Parade-hey took 2nd place out of 250!
The "heads" of the event!
All of the paper picados (banners) have cutouts that are a tribute to Los Muertos
Made from petals and seeds, many painstaking hours. Reminded me of a smaller scale version of creating a Rose Parade float.
Rae Miller, Maryann, Joy Wesson
For days earlier,during and after these holidays, you can delight your taste buds and ojos with the colorful and sweet alfeñiques sold from every corner around town. These are small replicas of little skulls, fruits, skeletons, animals and dishes filled with food, all made of sugar. Centuries ago before Christianity was introduced, a sacrificial offering of a pumping heart was made to the spirits. Horrified priests soon changed the offering to bread in the shape of a heart with crossed bones on the top, sprinkled with sugar. Heavenly smells emanate from every bakery in town as pan de Muerto is mass-produced. Jim was thrilled when I bought one for him, but quickly became disenchanted when he found out it wasn’t a gooey doughnut. He licked off the sugar and tossed the rest to our puppy.
Setting up along the side streets and for blocks in front of Panteón de San Juan de Dios, a “Living” historic cemetario established in the 1700’s, flower vendors prepare to sell massive quantities of flowers for the candlelight vigils to be held each evening on the 1st and 2nd. Pedestrian and taxi control is a major task for the policia as thousands descend upon the graveyards. The profusion of color and floral scent is intoxicating as literally millions of flowers and altars are laid out by the grave sites and the mausoleum walls.
Even the most humble grave-site is well-adorned. The scent was intoxicating!
Even mausoleum walls receive major attention.
That IS a sombrero protecting Jesus from the sun!
The gated section is for Gringos.
The Gringo section: Clearly we aren't as well thought of by our relatives as the Mexicans.
Another exciting chapter in our experiences here. However, back to conjugations!
Kathy & Jim's 2011 san Miguel de Allende Odyssey 